A few years ago, when I discovered I had a spinal condition (spondylolisthesis), I had to stop running and turned to walking and hiking instead. What started as a practical choice soon became a passion, offering me not just exercise but a deeper connection to nature and moments of clarity I didn’t know I needed. When life affords me the opportunity to take a few days off from teaching Pilates (something that has helped my back enormously), I look for places to go to where I can exercise this passion!
MY CAMINO BEGINNING
When I first walked the Hermanus Camino with girlfriends in 2022, I never imagined it would set the stage for a bigger adventure across the Atlantic. Earlier this year, one of them let me know that she would be in Spain in October for work and she would join me to walk on one of the original Camino routes if I could make it happen! It was the nudge I needed.
This would be at the end of the Camino season—not too hot and apparently, not too busy. Which route to choose? The Camino Primitivo’s reputation as the original pilgrimage route, coupled with its craggy, mountainous scenery, was irresistible. We would cross multiple mountain ranges, and climb 1100m above sea level, but we would also be rewarded with spectacular views of Embalse de Salime, the River Navia and the surrounding mountains. We promptly got walking on weekends around our beautiful Plett for 15-20 km at a time with about 4-6 kg in our backpacks, to get a feel for some of the physical demands of our trip.
THE CAMINO’S HISTORY
The Camino de Santiago has existed for over 1000 years, dating back to the 9th Century (the time of King Alfonso II of Asturias) when the remains of St James the Apostle were first discovered in Northern Spain. It is believed that St James preached the Gospel in present day Galicia and on return to Jerusalem he was beheaded by King Herod Agrippa in 44AD. His followers are said to have transported his remains to Northern Galicia where they lay undiscovered until 813. Santiago de Compostela is said to be the burial place of St James.
THE CAMINO TODAY
Today, the Camino is still very popular with traditional Roman Catholic pilgrims who travel to Santiago as a demonstration of their faith. Catholics that walk during a Holy Year can earn a plenary indulgence (forgiveness of all sins) from the Church. It is for this reason that Holy Years tend to concentrate higher numbers of pilgrims on the trail. All of the routes to Santiago pass by holy shrines, magnificent Cathedrals, historic monasteries and rural churches which give a real sense of the traditional reasons for travelling to Santiago.
Pilgrims carry a credential, or Pilgrim Passport, which can be obtained through local Confraternities of St. James, pilgrim offices, or churches along the route. This document is stamped daily to access pilgrim hostels and is required to receive the Compostela in Santiago, but you must have walked a minimum of 100 km (the last 100 km).
CAMINO: WHAT (NOT) TO PACK
We made lists and had decisions to make. Packing for the Camino Primitivo was an exercise in minimalism. With just 40 litres of backpack space, every item had to earn its place. We debated over sleeping bags and ultimately left them behind, trusting the albergues would have blankets. Choosing just one pair of trail running shoes was another leap of faith—I hoped they’d hold up through the rugged terrain.
My final packing list included:
• 1 pair of trail running shoes
• 2 pairs of underwear, 1 pair of pajamas
• 3 pairs of socks
• Leggings, shorts, and shirts (2 each)
• A warm jacket and one for wind/rain
• A buff, beanie, and cap for all weather conditions
• Essentials like toiletries, a towel, a facecloth, and plasters
• Anti-inflammatories (a non-negotiable!)
• A flask and water bottle for hydration
• 10 snack bars and one dehydrated camping meal for emergencies.
My friend was able to pack our walking poles in her main luggage.
I’ll admit, it felt strange to pare down my wardrobe to just three or four outfits and three pairs of socks. But as I zipped up my backpack, I felt an odd sense of freedom—it was all I’d need to survive the next two weeks.
LET’S GO!
While many people walk the Camino for religious or spiritual reasons, I was one of those looking for a personal challenge and for adventure,
I wanted to spend time in nature and to explore another culture and country. I was also curious to know why other people were doing it, what it would be like to walk 15-30 km a day for 2 weeks and to potentially not really know where I would be sleeping each night. So with my bag packed and flights booked I was ready to find out.
Once I had arrived in Madrid, I met up with my friend and we had supper in one of the local eateries with one of her colleagues. The next morning we had a train to catch to Oviedo, a lovely University town in northwest Spain between the Cantabrian Mountains and the Bay of Biscay. The capital of Asturias, it’s known for its medieval old town, the site of the Gothic Oviedo Cathedral with its 9th-century Holy Chamber. Oviedo has been recognized as the cleanest city in Spain on multiple occasions, and is said to be the cleanest city in Europe.
From the Cathedral of El Salvador, we zig-zagged out of the town centre, following the blue scallops on the building walls. We continued through mountain passes with magnificent views and picturesque mountain villages and hamlets, and historic towns, walking between 20 and 27 km a day for two weeks.
During days 1–5, we were blessed with blue skies, forest trails densely sprinkled with fallen oak leaves, ferns, colorful houses, bridges, horses, ponies, apple orchards, cats, dogs, goats, a few muddy patches, the gentle chimes of cowbells, and rolling green farmlands.
We met people from Holland, Germany, Denmark and Australia and often found that we were all staying in the same B&Bs (there are not too many to choose from!) or following similar itineraries. (We had decided to prebook our accommodation for the first few nights until we got into the swing of things, which we managed easily on booking.com.) We also started to notice that some people had decided to have their backpacks (or themselves) transported to the next town, as the steep ascents and descents were quite tricky to tackle with the added weight on one’s back.
RAIN IN SPAIN
During the next few days we experienced a few rain showers (and mud!) and walked our longest distance so far, 30 kms, on day 8. Our journey took us to the city of Lugo, known for having one of the best preserved Roman walls in Europe, which extends for 2 km around the old town. The Roman wall of Lugo is a World Heritage Site as listed by UNESCO. Lugo also stands out for its cuisine and the city has a large number of tapas bars.
I remember thinking how wonderful it was to have the option of sharing a meal each night with the people I had recently met on the trail. Just as we could choose to walk and chat, getting to know each other, we also had the freedom to spend time in our own company.
Most villages had only two or three restaurants and occasionally a small supermarket. In the larger towns, restaurants often didn’t open until seven or even eight in the evening. This left plenty of time between arriving at the accommodation and having dinner to connect with other pilgrims, do a load of laundry, or explore the town—provided one’s feet weren’t protesting at the very idea!
LUGO FOR REFUELLING
While my friend continued to the next town on day 9 (in the rain), I decided to take a rest day in Lugo and resume on day 10 (also in the rain). I managed to do some laundry and enjoyed the most satisfying three course meal of my Camino: a pasta, a meat entree with rice and vegetables and a traditional flan for just €14. I saved the main course for lunch the next day, which turned out to be a wise decision, as I didn’t come across any shops or restaurants on that stretch.
The route becomes busier from Lugo, as many people only walk the final 100 km of the trail. The towns also get bigger from here with more accommodation, shops and restaurants. That night, I stayed at my first real albergue—a rustic country house with stone walls and tree trunks for ceiling beams. There were about nine of us sharing one mixed dorm (men and women together!). Interestingly, I was probably the second youngest, with most of the others appearing to be in their sixties.
The owners were lovely and didn’t speak a word of English, but everyone was very respectful and quiet. The next morning, everyone was gone by the time it started to get light—around 8:10!
OCTOPUS AND BEER
The next day was very wet, and I was thoroughly drenched by the time I arrived in Melide. That evening, I enjoyed octopus and €2 local beers with a few fellow pilgrims I had met along the way.
The following day was a short one, covering just 15 km to Arzúa. There, I met new pilgrims, from Ireland , France and Norway. Some had been walking all the way from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in France! From that point onward, the feeling for me was reminiscent of the excitement I felt as a child in the days leading up to Christmas. However, when I reached my albergue in O Pedrouzo, I had mixed emotions because I was super-excited about completing my first Camino the following day, but at the same time, I didn’t really want it to be over.
The weather on that last day was perfect. I left while it was still dark and walked alone for most of those last 21 km, reflecting on the journey. Many other pilgrims and I passed countless beautiful shops, cafés, and bars on our way to the cathedral. Once you hear the sound of bagpipes, you know you’re about to walk into the Plaza Obradoiro, where hundreds of people from all over the world are standing, sitting, taking photos, laughing, talking, singing, or simply observing their own emotions.
I would have loved to spend another day there to attend the Pilgrims’ Mass, eat all the ice cream, and soak up the atmosphere. Unfortunately, I had to catch an early train back to Madrid the next morning, followed by a lunchtime flight back to South Africa.
CAMINO COMPLETE
When I’m asked about the experience, or when the Camino comes up in conversation, I automatically smile, recalling the cheerful “Hola” or “Buen Camino” greetings from every Spanish local I passed along the trail. I’ll never forget the simple, yet delicious food: ham and cheese bocadillos, hearty Galician soups (the chickpea, spinach, and potato one being a favourite), the classic tortilla made of potato, onion, and egg, the wonderfully rich red wine, and the amazing coffee—even in the smallest towns.
If I hear a cowbell now, it instantly transports me back, accompanied by memories of the quiet, sweeping panoramic views and the simplicity of those days.